Lisa A. Pierson, DVM
Back to Drop Trap/Remote Control
of a drop
trap in use. (The reason why this cat marched under the trap right on
cue was because he had been fed under it for the previous 2 weeks.)
April 22, 2007
Cost and time
Top/side PCV pieces
Side panel hasps
Building the door
Safety for the
Please drop me a line if you are successful in building one of
these or have any questions. I am also interested in seeing how
other people modify my design - we can all learn from each other when it
comes to building a better cat trap!
This page illustrates how to make a folding drop trap out of PVC pipe.
Wood is easier to work for some people but I hate sanding so I prefer
using PVC pipe. Plus, PVC holds up better over time.
There are many ways to build a drop trap. See this
Please note that the style of drop
trap shown on that site is not as small (when folded down) as the one shown below
that I designed.
Depending on your vehicle, this may be an important issue for you.
I also have a couple of concerns about the
trap style shown at the link noted above.
1) Since the sides of the wire trap
are transparent (versus the solid walls on the trap design shown
below), many cats will push the trap quite a distance when trying to
escape. If the trap is pushed over a low spot or a curb, the
cat will be able to escape out from under it. With solid
walls, the cats are less apt to push the trap around.
Believe me...it does NOT take much of a
gap for a cat to be able to escape out from under a drop trap! As
little as 1"-2" is enough for a panicked cat to get leverage and lift up
a trap and escape.
advise people to make sure that their trapping area is AT LEAST 6' x 6'
of solid, FLAT ground. If using a trap with transparent sides, it
will be much safer to trap in an area with larger square footage of
perfectly flat ground given just how far a frightened cat can move a
I have had cats move my
30 lb trap 3-4 feet and spin it around 90 degrees.
2) The wire trap has a RIGID
top versus the one shown below with flexible netting. The wire
trap is also a couple of inches shorter allowing the cat to put
considerable upward force on the trap. If a cat pushes up against
the top of the wire trap, the entire trap will raise up immediately.
If a cat pushes up against a net top, the
net will absorb the force and stretch...resulting in the trap staying
in better contact with the ground.
This is a very important point since I
often trap more than one cat at a time. If one cat is going
up...resulting in the trap being raised off the ground...even an inch or
two...the other cat could escape out the bottom.
The trap shown at the link above is MUCH
easier and MUCH faster to build so, with the above caveats in mind, if
you don't want to tackle the more difficult-to-build trap below, please
consider making a wire trap. However, it you do build one, I would
highly suggest adding rebar to it - in an evenly-weighted fashion - to
make it a 30 lb trap.
Now...back to building a folding PCV pipe
Please pay attention to how you are placing your screws - keeping the
cat's safety in mind. The 4 corner hinges are applied with the
head of the screws on the inside of the trap but because I use the
bulkier nylon lock nuts, I have to reverse that for the side hinges
otherwise they will not close properly. If you are using thin,
flat nuts and cutting off the excess machine screw tip, you may be able
to keep all heads of the screws on the inside of the trap.
Make sure that nothing sharp is on the inside of the trap.
As you are building this trap, it is very important
to use a square ("L") and pay attention to what needs to be
parallel and what needs to be at a 90 degree angle otherwise the trap
will not fold properly.
When you are drilling into a round pipe, and want to be accurate with
your hole placement and not have your drill bit slip off of the pipe,
you can line up your drill bit to be perpendicular to the pipe when
first starting. Then as you advance the drill, you can rotate your drill
around to head down the right path. This is easy to do because PVC
pipe is soft and it will help you drill your holes more accurately.
Cost and Time
The materials for this trap will run about $100 without the netting.
(I get netting donated to me.) If you purchase netting from
will run you another ~$30 for a total of ~$130.
It takes me about 20 hours to build one of these but I am not
known for my speed. I stand around a lot....staring at
it....hoping that it will build itself. The only thing that pushes me to
building these is the knowledge of how much suffering will be prevented
when a drop trap is used to manage the feral cat population.
Front/Back Frames, Side Pieces
Start by making two end frames using 1" PVC pipe and 90 degree 1"
elbows. The long poles are 44" and the short ones are 10".
Using a hammer, tap the poles into the elbows so that they are seated
firmly. (Be sure to do this with all of the PVC pipe and
fittings.) Lay them down on a flat surface and make sure that they
are properly aligned and are 'true'. If they are not, then just twist
them into alignment.
Note on using some 3/4" pipe versus all 1" pipe: If using hardboard
(1/4" for the front panel and 1/8" for the side panels) and not the
lighter coroplast that I have access to, this trap ends up weighing 29.5
lbs which is perfect in my opinion - as long as
you are using a tail spacer as discussed below in the
Safety for the Cat section
- for reasons outlined on the Drop
Trap/Remote Control page. (Cats get out of lighter traps more
frequently and that is not a road that I ever want to go down....after
sitting for hours trying to catch that elusive 'baby machine' or tom
Make the 4 side pieces using both 1" PVC pipe (horizontal piece) and
3/4" PVC pipe (vertical piece). Note that there are 4 - 90 degree
elbows that are 1" x 3/4" and 4 - 90 degree elbows that are
3/4" x 3/4".
The 1" PVC pieces are 20" long and the 3/4" vertical pipes are 10" long.
Applying the Hinges
This is the most challenging part of building this trap. The
hinges must be applied correctly or the trap will not fold properly.
See the schematic diagram above showing the position of the drill bit
I use 8-32 machine screws and nylon lock nuts which are much easier to
use than liquid thread lockers such as Loctite. The machine screw lengths that I
use are 1 5/8", 1 3/4" and 2" - all pan or round head. I use a Dremel tool and cutoff wheels to
off any excess length from the screws if necessary. Most of the
time I am able to match up the screw length with the application so that
I don't have to cut many of them off. A 2" screw is usually needed
when going through the pipe and elbow and a 1 5/8" screw is usually
needed for the front tip of the hinge but sometimes a 1 3/4" screw is
needed there if tightening the front part of the hinge makes the side
piece bowtie in. If you are not using the nylon locking nuts, and
are using smaller, flatter nuts, you
may need shorter screws.
Do not over-tighten the screws.
The hinge pin must be perpendicular to the ground.
This is an example of what you do not want. Note how the hinge is
out of alignment in two planes. It is both tilted and rotated.
Again, the hinge pin must be perpendicular to the ground.
You can loosen/tighten the two back screws as needed to level out the
hinge, but if it is rotated, that means you did not drill your holes
This hinge is applied correctly. It is parallel with the PVC pipe
(not rotated) and is flat (not tilted).
This hinge is applied correctly. I do like to trim the boards as
accurately as possible to keep light from coming in since a feral cat will start pushing and
clawing at any light source with the hope of escaping. This board
is not trimmed very tightly.
Please note that the hardboard shown here is an
example of how NOT to do it. See that it is LOWER THAN THE
PIPE and can act as a guillotine on a cat's tail. Trim the
board so that it does not go past the bottom of the pipe. This
board needs about 3/4" removed from the bottom of it so that it rests on
the midline of the pipe.
Hinges applied correctly. Note that the two vertical pieces are
parallel and perpendicular to the ground.
These hinges were not applied as well as they should have been.
Note the gap between the two vertical pieces and see how the end frame
tilts backward. However, when the net is put on, it will pull the
trap together nicely.
Side Hinges and Hasps
Apply the side hinges - remembering to use the L to
keep the trap square. Check both sides of the trap to make sure it
is square before applying the hinges.
There is a more detailed picture of
this part of the trap below. Use a snap to secure the hasp.
This hasp is 1 3/4" in length and is 3/4"
wide. The length really does not matter but the width does since there
is not much room on 1" PVC pipe. It is secured with machine
screws and nuts on the underside (not shown in the picture). Note how the small piece of
the hasp is applied very close to the end of the pipe. It is best
if the long flat part of the hasp is as far back as possible because
when it is flipped forward, it will catch up when opening the trap.
BE CAREFUL when opening these traps as the hasps are often in the way
and need to be flipped back before the trap can be opened....otherwise
they will get torn off.
Also, there is not much room on this small piece (hidden from view by
the snap) for two 8-32 machine screw heads to sit side-by-side.
And there is not enough room at the bottom for the bulkier nylon lock
nuts. For this reason, I use 6-32 machine screws instead of the
8-32 screws. I then use the small nuts (with Loctite) that come with the 6-32
screws which will fit side-by-side on the underside of the trap.
This is another tricky part. Note the hinges below and how the top
one (Stanley Heavy Duty 4") has two holes that are close together whereas the lower one (National HD 4") has the two holes further apart.
Now, note the picture above where I have the machine screws placed
through the hasp. The National brand of hinge allows for that but
the Stanley does not (unless you drill another hole in the hinge).
The Stanley hinges are fine for the corners.
Top PVC Pieces
Measure the distance between the the top elbows on the side uprights taking into consideration
how far the top 3/4" PVC pipe pieces will insert into the elbows.
Divide that distance by 2 and that will give you the length that you
need to cut the top pieces. The length of each of the 4 top pieces
should end up being ~20". You would like for them to meet
together without more than a 1/2" gap between them. Brace the elbows while tapping the PVC
pipe into them securely so as not to put too much pressure on the hinges. (I just brace them with my leg.)
Note that the side and back panels are placed on the INSIDE of the
trap but the front panel with the door is placed on the OUTSIDE of the
I first made these traps with hardboard - using 1/4" for the front panel
due to the weight of the door and using 1/8" for the other 3 sides.
This resulted in a trap that was 29.5#. In my strong opinion, this
is a perfect weight (as long as you are providing a tail gap spacer as
discussed below in the Safety section) but other people may
find that too heavy. That said, if you make it lighter, you *will*
lose cats and you will not be able to trap multiple cats at one time
with as much assurance that you won't have one escape.
In order to make it
lighter (23.5#) you can use 1/4"
Coroplast for three of the sides but this material is not readily available for most people.
It is lightweight, is very durable and is very easy to work with.
It can be cut with scissors. If anyone is going to make several of
these traps, it would be well-worth sourcing. I get mine locally
at Plastic Depot in Gardena,
I then add rebar back to the trap to make it ~30 lbs. When I drop
my trap, I want it staying where I drop it!! Some people think
that heavy drop traps are dangerous but the bottom line is......pay
attention to when you pull the rope! Any drop trap can injure a
cat or kitten if the trapper is not careful to time the pull of the rope
Important note: Do not fit the panels
so that they are flush with the ground or extend beyond the pipe.
(See a picture above showing how *not* to have the board.) Otherwise, they have the potential of acting as a
guillotine on a cat's tail. This is especially important for the 2
side panels at the front where the cats will be sitting and eating.
Cats often have their tails out past the perimeter of the trap.
Fit the panels so that they end at the middle of the pipe or a bit
lower. Since I use 12" high panels, this works out
well. (If you were to fit the 12" panels flush with the ground,
they would not meet the top PVC pipe rail.)
As an added safety measure, I add a 5/8"
raise the trap up in order to create a gap in case the trap were to come
down on a tail. See the
Safety for the Cat section below for
more comments about the needed safety gap. If you are making the
trap smaller (3' x 3') then you will need a 3/4" spacer since the cat's
tail base will be closer to the edge of a smaller trap and a cat's tail
is thicker at it base.
If you want to try and use 1/8" hardboard for the door panel
instead of the 1/4", this will cut 2# off
of the weight. You won't have the 1/4" material to make the
but I suppose that you could use the 1/8" hardboard to make small
With the dimensions of this trap, the panels are 12" high but measure
the length for each one. I fit each panel so that it goes
over the hinge pin to close the gap in the corners as much as possible.
(see picture below)
When securing the 3 rear panels in the back half of the trap (1 long and
2 short) just use 3 - 7" cable ties on the sides and secure the bottom
front corners (of the short side pieces) with a couple of 4" cable ties
as shown in the next picture. Don't waste cable ties on the bottom
or top of the 3 back pieces at this point in time because you will be
turning the trap over and applying carpet strips to the bottom of the
back half of the trap and you will be attaching the net to the top later
Be sure to tuck the cut ends of these 4" cable ties inside the pipe or else
they will catch on the netting when you try to open the trap.
Keylee is supervising the carpet installation on the back half of the trap.
The carpet dampens the noise when the trap drops and will
scare the trapped cat(s) less, as well as the cats around the trap.
That said, keep in mind that when you are deciding when to pull the
rope...pay close attention to the cats near the trap. You don't want to
scare them and so you may have to wait on pulling the rope if you have
cats hanging out too closely that you still want to trap. That is
not the end of the world because the cat that is under the trap...the
one that you do want...will have had a good experience with the trap.
You have to prioritize things when trapping cats. If the cat under
the trap is a very important one to get (an elusive baby machine or a
pregnant one) then go ahead and pull the rope and hope that the cats
around the trap are not scared too badly by it. It can be a split
second judgment call.
It is hard to see in this picture (below) but I did secure the front
ends of the carpet with 2 - 4" cable ties on each side - drilled through
the ends of the pipe near the center hinges. Note in the picture
above - right side - that I also drilled right through the elbow to
secure the carpet.
Side Panel Hasps
When using 1/4" Coroplast, I use 8-32
1/2" machine screws with a washer on the other side. If you are
using 1/8" hard board and are
not using the bulkier nylon lock nuts, you will need to use shorter screws
and possibly more washers to act as spacers - with the bottom line
being that you do not want the screw tips protruding into the trap where
the cats can hurt themselves. So you will either need to use the
right size screw and nut/washer combination or cut the screw tips off
and file them smooth. (Note that the carpet is just on
the back half.)
For the side hasp - some may want to use a clip like that shown on the bottom hasp in a
picture above, but in cold weather, I find that keeping it simple works
better. When my hands are cold, I do not want to fool with a snap
so I just use a machine screw tied on with string as shown. If you
have extra 2" screws left over, this would be a good place for them.
Inside of side panels with 13 nylon lock nuts:
Building the Door
Update: I have found that some traps
have a wire loop on the sliding back door that is quite prominent.
This prevents the metal trap from being pushed firmly against the frame
of the drop trap and also makes it hard to slide the metal trap door up
and down. See below for a modification that I have made. The
relief area is 1 1/2" wide.
Note that none of the original pictures below show this cut-out area.
I use 1/4" hardboard for the front panel. If you have been accurate in your
measurements up to this point, the front panel should be 46" long and
12" high but double check the measurements of your trap.
Cut a square out of the panel 9" x 9". This size door
works well with a trap that is 10" x 12" like a Tomahawk 608. If
your trap is smaller, then you will want to make the door smaller.
Just note that the smaller the door, the less enticing it will be for
the cat to go through it. It can be very frustrating to be
standing there with a cat that refuses to leave the drop trap and go
into the wire trap.
I like to put a radius on the bottom edge of the inside of the door
panel to ensure that the bottom of the sliding door slides nicely to the
bottom of the door frame tunnel.
I use old molding scraps to make the door frame. It is very
helpful to have the back of the molding flat so that the spacer lies
flat up against the molding. Most ornate molding is not flat on
the backside so using door stop for both the frame and the spacer works
The molding in the picture above happens to be 1 3/8" wide and the door
stop that is acting as a spacer is 3/8" thick and 5/8" wide.
(It will be listed as "1/2" x 3/4" door stop" at the lumber yard.) The
door panel is made from 1/4" hard board. You can pick whatever size of
wood you want to for the frame but just make sure that the spacer is 1/8" thicker
than the thickness of your sliding door. That way, the door
will slide very easily. I like the door
'sloppy'. In other words, it fits very loosely from front to back
(the 1/8" gap) and from side to side. When you are trying to
rapidly get the door down before the cat goes back into the drop trap
from the wire trap, you do not want a 'sticky' door.
It needs to
be able to slide very freely.
I cut the correct lengths of the 6 pieces and then use wood glue to
the spacers to the molding. You don't have to do 45 degree
'picture frame' cuts like shown in the picture. You can just do
straight cuts and it will be perfectly functional. The wood glue
is just to keep the two pieces
together well enough so that they don't slip when drilling the holes for
the machine screws that will be used
to attach this door frame to the hardboard panel. Allow at least 1
hour for the glue to set before drilling the holes.
Put the door
frame onto the front panel BEFORE attaching the panel to the trap.
This view of the back of the panel shows how I use small wood screws and washers to attach the velcro piece
(3/4" wide, 6 1/2" long)
to the front panel. (I use the small screws that came with the
small hasps.) Make sure that you cut off and file smooth any
part of the screw tip that protrudes otherwise your door will hang up on
them. The 'hook' part (2" long) of the velcro is glued to the sliding
door. (Superglue should work but I am using a quick
bond glue from a hobby shop that works very well. Both are
cyanoacrylate but the glue that I get from the hobby shop seems to bond
faster and stronger than the brand Superglue. (Superglue never
seems to work for me....)
Note in the above view where the machine screws attaching the door frame are placed. The
bottom ones need to be as low as possible and the top ones need to be
down a bit from the top otherwise, the nuts will meet the PVC pipe and
create a gap. It does create a gap at the bottom but the gap is
less if you put the screws as low as possible.
Pick a screw length taking into account the thickness of the molding, spacer and hardboard
so you don't have to go to the trouble of cutting off the excess screw
The bungee cords are hooked onto eyescrews that are screwed into the
It easier to put the eyescrews and bungee cords onto the door
frame after the panel has been attached to the trap. Crimp the
bungee cord hooks onto the eyescrews so they won't get lost.
After you have attached the front panel to the trap, it is time to put
the netting on the top. (I get old fishing net donated to
me that has holes in it that I repair with small (4") cable ties.)
The picture below shows a 5/16" dowel threaded
through 5/8" netting for a side panel. If you order the golf
impact (not golf barrier) netting from
Gourock, your netting will be larger (3/4") and so you can use a
slightly larger dowel....or just stick with a 5/16" dowel.
(Note on the Gourock net: The square mesh is easier to work with than
the diamond mesh. It will cost $8 more but may be worth it for the
ease of working with it.)
This dowel will be tucked under the PVC pipe and then the side panel plus the
dowel/net will be cable tied into place. I use needle nose pliers
to reach through the net to grab the end of the cable ties.
I like to start with the back panel and then do the front panel next,
followed by the 4 side panels. Applying the netting is a bit
tricky - especially at the corners. You don't want it too tight at the corners because then it
will be pulled too tightly when the trap is closed, but you do not want
it too loose at the corners either because a small kitten or an adult
cat's head can poke through it.
After the netting is put on, I
carefully examine all four corners and reinforce the netting as
needed by drilling through the PVC corner pieces and attaching the
netting with more cable ties. (See picture below.)
To reinforce the corners after the net has been put on all 4 sides,
drill your holes through the PVC corners and then thread the cable ties
with the trap open - estimating where to go through the netting but
don't close up the cable tie yet. Tighten them when the trap is in
the CLOSED position because you may have to alter where the cable ties
go through the netting. Otherwise, the netting at
the corners may end up being too tight when the trap is closed which will
stress the netting.
Never underestimate the ability of a
feral cat to get out of a small gap!!
I got bitten badly one time when a very
strong tom cat managed to push his head through the corner of the trap
between the vertical PCP pipe pieces.
This picture shows two cable ties (please use the black ties, not the
white ones) going through holes drilled into the corner PVC pieces securing the net at one corner. You may need 1 or 2
ties at each corner depending on how close your other ties are to the
corner. Most of the time, I get by with just one extra cable tie
per corner that is passed through a hole in the PVC 90 degree piece.
Some corners, however, have not needed any extra support. Just
think like a panicked feral cat and use your judgment. Better too
many cable ties than too few!
Safety for the Cat
There is no doubt in my mind that many feral cats have had their tails
damaged by drop traps. I have watched many cats sitting under
traps and observed that their tails often extend beyond the trap
perimeter. This is, of course, more apt to happen with the smaller
traps. I have had people claim to have "never hurt a cat's
tail" but the bottom line is....how would you know? It is not like
you can readily examine feral cat's tail after it has been trapped!
The veterinarian doing the surgery is not going examine or radiograph
the tail so, again, drop traps DO injure tails without it being
appreciated by the trapper!
Obviously, the heavier trap, the more damage will be done to the tail
but even a 13# trap hurts if dropped on your finger from several inches
above. Try it! Believe me, it hurts.
A cat's tail is about 12"-13" long. It is ~3/4" in diameter at the
base and ~5/8" at the mid point and ~3/8" 4" from the tip.
For this reason, I want at least a 5/8" gap created between the PVC pipe and the
ground at the side pieces in the front half of the trap where a cat's
tail will be when he is eating.
Be very careful to not have your 1/8" hardboard panels act as a
guillotine on a cat's tail! The hardboard should NOT be flush with
the ground. It should be above the bearing surface of the PVC
pipe. If there is going to be any contact between the trap and
the cat's tail, better that it be the PVC pipe than the sharp
edge of the board!
is so large that if you do catch a cat's tail, it will be toward the end
where it is thinner. If you use a trap that is smaller (3'x3')
then you may very well bring the trap down on the thicker, base of the
tail and even a 5/8" gap will not protect the cat from an injured tail.
This is another reason why I like larger traps.
The first thing that I used to create a gap was a stack of carpet
squares (shown in a picture below) but then moved to erasers which broke
up too easily. Neither of those options worked well for heavy use
so I switched to 1" wide 'threaded stem cushion
glides' which give me a 5/8" gap at the front corners of the trap.
I only use 2 of them at each front corner so the trap does slope down. This leaves
about a 1/2" gap where the tip of the tail would be.
I originally used carpet squares but now I put the "cushion guide" here
instead. (Carpet squares will work but will need to be replaced
I tried erasers but they broke up too easily. If you don't trap much, you can still use
erasers or carpet squares. Just be sure to check them often to
make sure that they are still present and doing their job.
Bottom of the trap
pictured below: Note the location of the stacks of carpet squares to the
right (front of the trap) and to the left near the center hinge.
You can also use erasers here instead. Or just use the cushion glides shown
above - a total of 2 - 1 at each front corner of the trap.
The reason why I don't use 4 of the cushion guides is because I worry
about a rare chance that one would come down on a tail if positioned
near the side hinge. Use your judgment to provide a gap. Maybe use
the metal cushion guides on the front corners and carpet squares near
the side hinges if using only the cushion guides does not give you a
large enough gap.
I really can't imagine a cat pushing its way through the gap between the
vertical PVC pipes at the corners but if they pushed hard enough, they
may get their head through and injure themselves.
Update: Well...the above did happen to
me! I was trapping a cat and felt a sudden horrible pain in my
calf. I looked down and a big tom cat had all four of his canine teeth
(fangs) sunk into my leg. He had managed to push his head through
the gap. He was able to pull it back and I got him successfully
transferred to a wire trap before tending to my bleeding leg.
If the trap is
not constructed properly, there will be more of a gap than there should
be. Also, there is 'play' in all hinges so we can only make that
gap as tight as wobbly hinges will allow.
For added reinforcement, I add an 11" cable tie (or hook 2 - 7" ones
together) as shown (with the tab untrimmed). Note the placement of
the cable tie as shown in the lower view taken from inside the trap.
It is snug up against the side 3/4" PVC pipe but it is ~2" from the
front 1" pipe. This is to allow for the way that the trap closes.
Note: Do not tighten this reinforcement cable tie when the trap
is open. Tighten (not too tight...just snuggly) it only when the trap is closed. This
will result in the tie being a bit loose in the open position but if the
tie is too tight while in the open position, the trap will not close.
There are many ways to make handles - just figure out what works best
The picture below shows the placing of the handles but I don't make my
handles this way anymore.
I now use chain wrapped in duct tape and then I wrap a carpet strip
around it and secure it with duct tape. This results in two
comfortable handles. I bend the ends of the chain to a 90 degree
angle so that it stands up better.
Attach small eye bolts to the back panel
as shown. Use 4 washers for each side of the 2 eyebolts.
This provides a place to hook your bungee cords and also keeps the trap
closed. You will have to cut off the ends of the bolts and smooth
them with a file.
Use all 3/4" PVC pipe with 4 - 3/4" T's and 2 - 3/4" 90 degree angle
Cut 1 - 8" pipe and 2 - 12" pipes and 2 - 1 7/8" (or a bit shorter)
small pieces. Construct as shown using the 1 7/8" pieces to attach
the 90 degree angle pieces to the T's. (Drive one end of the small
piece into the upper T and then slip the 90 degree piece on.) Use a hammer to tap the
pieces firmly together.
Use 50' of soft rope - one that will lie flat and straight and has NO
stretch! You want the rope very rigid so that when you pull on it,
there is no delay in dropping the trap....not even a split
second. Cats can 'turn on a dime' and are very fast!
You may want to use PVC pipe glue to construct your stand but I choose
not to in case the U
shaped part breaks. If it breaks, I can easily replace it.
(In over 4 years of use, my stand has never broken but I still don't
bother with gluing it. I just straighten it after each use.)
The drawback about not using glue is that the stand will shift around
when it is banged on the ground as it is pulled rapidly out from under
the trap. This is not a problem but you do have to make sure the
stand is 'true' and aligned properly before re-setting the trap.
It just takes 2 seconds to twist it back into proper alignment and I
have to wonder if it was glued....and there was less 'give' to the stand
pieces....would it be more apt to break? PVC is pretty darn strong
so it probably would not break. It is your choice to glue or not
The 90 degree elbow should face forward as shown below - not the other way
Make sure that the trap is perfectly centered and that the stand is
perpendicular to the ground. Put a mark on your trap to show
where the exact center is of the trap. I actually do this with my
first cable tie when putting the carpet on.
Be very careful to NOT have the stand angled at
all. It must perpendicular to the ground.
Otherwise, the trap will be more apt to fall if a cat bumps into it.
I find that I catch more cats....and catch them much more quickly.... if
I use a trail of food in addition to the main bowl of food placed in the
center/front of the trap. Make sure that the bowl of food is
centered to lower the chances of a tail getting caught under the
trap. Also, use both dry and canned food. Some cats do not
like canned food yet that is what we most frequently use for our bait.
We often erroneously assume that all
cats love canned food when many are dry food addicts.
If you are having to spend a few nights getting a cat used to the
trap...a cat that is very afraid of it....put more food all around the
entire trap....~10-15' away...then closer and closer...and closer to the
trap. I had to do this for 12 nights in a row before I could catch
a very wary female that had given birth to many litters and had seen
many cats trapped and was VERY trap-shy.
If you are trapping in a backyard where it is safe to leave the trap set
up, prop it up on something very solid (so that it has no chance of
falling) and feed the cats under it until you are ready to trap them.
This is what was done for the grey tabby shown in the video linked
below. The reason why he marched under it so quickly is because he had
been eating under it for the previous 2 weeks.
Please be sure to review this
using this trap.
Partially Updated March, 2011
Lisa A. Pierson, DVM